Le Tournant, Brussels – The Place to Go Twice

I am always a bit scared to go
back to restaurants twice. It happened too many time already that when coming
back the food wasn’t as good, because the cook had a bad day, or the service
wasn’t as nice as the first time I went, or the restaurant has decided to
change its interior entirely, sometimes to a worse in my opinion. It’s some
kind of non-fulfillment of expectations anxiety. But on the other hand, like
this I can be really certain to recommend a restaurant: when it was great many
times.
Le Tournant was great the first
time and I would say at least equally well, or even better the second. The
first time was rather spontaneous, all in line with the spontaneous visit of a
person I hadn’t spent dinner with for way too long. A quick look at the menu, a
quick look into each other’s eyes and the decision was made: homemade foie gras
with fig jam and toasted bread as a starter and duck confit and the hand cut
beef tartar as a main. All the dishes here are homemade, except for the
cheeses, and so was the perfect, smooth and tasteful foie gras. The duck confit
was incredibly tender, full with simple but interesting and matching spices
along with some oven potatoes. The star of this evening was with no doubt,
however, (besides my guest) the hand cut beef tartar. Cut in thick cubes,
marinated in I-have-no-idea-what because I was so focused on eating, mixed with
soft morels, served with crispy fries. I would order this dish again at any
point.
The second visit was with the
lovely Judith, my mayor food companion here in Brussels. We got greeted very
nicely by Denis, the chef and owner of the place. Exceptionally we were able to
try a bit of the foie gras, the terrine and the rillettes, all homemade. It
goes without saying – which I couldn’t have anyways at that point because I couldn’t
stop eating – that these three starters were very delicious, together with the
very good, fresh bread. The first main dish was one that I appreciated a lot.
Arranged on the plate without many frills and furbelows there was a crispy,
fresh mixed green salad with a simple vinaigrette, a few oven potatoes baked in
duck fat and the center part of this dish: the Entrecote. Super tender, cooked
just to the perfect point – medium rare – with no sauce needed, just a few
pinches of coarse sea salt. Judith and I, we both were please by such an
ordinarily-looking dish, tasting so nicely. The following seabass, arranged on
four different summer salads (that didn’t sweep me off my feet, but were tasty
as well) was tender too, with a crispy fried skin. The fish was served with a sauce made from mizo and yuzu, which was somehow quite special. The dessert was a
special assortment of several desserts, with a piece of lemon tart, gooey and
rich chocolate cake and a crumble made from apple, pear and peach, topped with ice cream made from fresh white cheese and orange blossom. I think my favourite one was the last!
One of the most important details
at Le Tournant, however, is the wine. Their wine selection is very diverse, all
being biodynamic, natural wines from mostly France, but you’ll also find a few
bottles from Italy and other countries. More on the wine soon, in a next post
where everything will be about the grapes. What’s important is that here all
wines accompanying your meal are chosen carefully with a lot of thoughts behind
it. Each of our delicious dishes was matched with a white or red wine, along
with some explanations by the very nice staff. Especially the wines served with
each of the desserts were matched so well that it seemed this dessert was made
for its respective counterpart in wine, such as the yuzu sake that was served
with the lemon tart.
The interior is quite clean, not
too many things hanging on the walls, beside some funny posters. Tables and
chairs are kept simple, made from the same wood as the bar and not standing too
close to your neighbors, which I often appreciate. The only thing that
self-proclaimed lightning-expert Judith remarked, was that the lights could be
a bit dimmed to create a cosier atmosphere. In case you feel boreed by your
dinner-date: You can look into the open kitchen while enjoying a dinner that is
perfect for almost any occasion.
Good to know: Starters around
9-12€, mains around 18€, letournant.com

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